Flare and Bell Bottom Jeans: Differences and How to Style

Flare and bell bottom jeans both widen below the knee, and in shops the names are used almost interchangeably. The practical difference is degree: a flare opens gradually from the knee, while a bell bottom stays fitted longer and then opens wide. If you want something wearable every day, start with a flare. If you want a clear 70s look, go for the bell.

Below: how the two cuts differ, which rise and wash to pick, how to hem them, and outfit formulas that look retro without looking like a costume.

Section 01

Bell bottom vs flare jeans: what is the difference?

If you are asking whether bell bottoms and flare jeans are the same, the honest answer is "nearly, but not quite." Both are fitted through the thigh and wide at the hem. A flare usually begins to open at or just below the knee and widens at a modest angle. A bell bottom tends to open lower and more dramatically, so the hem is much wider relative to the knee. Retailers blur the terms, so check the hem measurement rather than trusting the label.

The shape has a practical history. The FIT exhibition on denim notes that the United States Navy first introduced flared pants in 1905, designed with flares to make them easier to roll up when swabbing the deck. The same exhibition says such pants were a precursor to the bell-bottom jeans of the hippie movement, and that many hippies bought their first flares from Army/Navy surplus stores.

Flares came back more than once. FIT's fashion history timeline records low-rise flared jeans as prevalent in the early 2000s, with bootcut jeans more popular by the mid-2000s.

Section 02

What rise works best?

High waisted flare jeans are the easiest place to start. A high rise sits at or above the navel, so the fitted part of the leg looks longer and the flare below it reads as a deliberate contrast. Tucking in a top shows off the waistline, which is the point of the cut.

Mid-rise flares are more forgiving if a high waist feels restrictive when you sit. Look for some stretch in the denim, because a stiff rigid fabric in a high rise can dig in at the waistband. Low-rise styles belong to the early 2000s look and suit people who want that specific reference.

Through the lens of evidence-based design, I'd treat the waistband as the first line the eye reads. Where it sits sets the proportions of everything below it.

Section 03

Which wash should you pick?

Wash changes the mood more than the cut does, because lighter and darker denim reflect light differently.

• Dark indigo or black: reads sleek and dressier, and works with blazers and heeled boots.
• Mid-wash with light fading: the closest match to bell bottom jeans 70s style, especially with a flowy blouse.
• Light wash: relaxed and casual, good with a simple tee or knit.
• White or cream: crisp for warm weather, best in a thicker denim that is not see-through.
• Colored denim: red, mustard or olive gives the shape a playful twist. Keep the top neutral.

Section 04

What body type do flare jeans look best on?

Flares suit most bodies, because the wider hem balances a fitted thigh and, for many people, the hips. Fit matters more than body category, so use these as starting points, not rules.

• If you have a defined waist, a high rise highlights it.
• If you carry more weight in the hips, a structured waistband and a wider hem balance the proportions.
• If you prefer to skim the midsection, try a mid-rise with stretch and a gentle flare.
• If your frame is straight, a bigger hem or detail like patch pockets adds shape.

A jacket that pulls is a fit problem, and so is a waistband that gapes. Neither is a you problem. Petite frames usually do well with a cropped or slightly narrower flare, and a heel keeps the leg line long. Taller people can wear a full-length, wide hem without it swallowing them.

Section 05

How should flare jeans be hemmed?

Length is where flares succeed or fail. The hem should almost touch the floor in the shoes you will actually wear, covering most of the shoe but not dragging. Wear a platform or heel to the tailor, because a hem set for sneakers will be too short with boots. Big bell bottom jeans need extra care: the wide opening collects dirt quickly, so a half inch higher is practical for daily wear.

Section 06

How to style flare and bell bottom jeans

The rule is simple: fitted on top of the wide hem, or a looser top with a defined waist.

1. Tuck in a bodysuit, turtleneck or fitted tee to keep the waistline visible.
2. Choose shoes with some height, such as platforms, wedges or block-heeled boots, so the hem has room to fall.
3. Pair a loose blouse or an oversized sweater with a fitted flare, and tuck just the front if you want shape.
4. Add one retro accessory, such as hoops or a wide belt, and keep the rest modern.

Outfit formulas

• Casual: light-wash flares, a boxy knit and sneakers or clogs.
• Polished: dark flares, a tailored blazer, a tucked turtleneck and heeled ankle boots.
• Boho: mid-wash flares, a flowy blouse and suede boots.
• Summer: white flares and a striped tee, as in these nautical-inspired outfits.

Denim-on-denim works too if the two washes are clearly different. A matching set can look like a uniform, so vary the shade a little. For other retro shapes, see these wide-leg culottes, retro overalls and bell sleeves. Our longer piece on bell bottom jeans goes deeper on the dramatic cut.

Section 07

How to avoid a costume look

Retro works best when only one element is retro. If the jeans are 70s, keep the top, bag and shoes current: a sleek knit, a minimal bag, clean lines. Piling on fringe, paisley and a floppy hat at once is what tips it into costume. A few other retro color ideas can help you choose one accent at a time.

I'd choose a matte denim over a shiny one for a modern read, because a flat surface looks calmer and a glossy one pulls attention to the hem.

Section 08

Can you wear them to the office?

Yes, with the right version. Choose dark or black denim with a clean finish and no heavy fading, pair with a tailored blazer and polished shoes, and keep the hem long enough to cover the shoe. Check your workplace dress code first.

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Frequently asked questions

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